My first introduction to Rio de Janeiro was my best friend running towards me at the airport, right at the gate. We hadn’t seen each other in six months and before that it had been a year, so we were overdue to spend some quality time together.
Tasha and I have been friends since secondary school and after drifting apart for several years, we reconnected in 2016, only for her to move half way around the world a couple of years later. We both love to travel and so, with the acceptance that we will probably spend a lot of time in different countries to each other, we’ve managed to keep our friendship going strong.
From the airport, we headed straight to our AirBnB, hosted by a wonderful lady Jaline. She made us vegan tapioca and peanut butter pancakes in the morning and supplied us with more fruit, coffee and iced tea than we could consume. I’ve never felt so welcome in a strangers home, she was attentive, kind and I would highly recommend her as a host to anyone staying in Rio. You can find her at: https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/7472642?s=67&unique_share_id=a8136ca5-d3f8-475e-a9bb-d8452f401498
Much to my surprise, vegan food was very easy to come by. Some of Brazil’s most popular foods are vegan; like açaí which is a fruit and superfood, accompanying meals in the Amazon rainforest, but in other parts of Brazil it’s most commonly mixed with sugar and eaten as a type of sorbet.
Açaí is packed full of nutrients and antioxidants and is so refreshing on a hot Brazilian day. Also popularly used are: tapioca, almost entirely made up of carbs (remember we do need carbs); polenta, which contains fibre, protein and vitamin A; plantain, full of potassium, magnesium, vitamins A and C and antioxidants; rice, containing B vitamins, manganese and magnesium; beans, a great source of protein, fibre, folate and manganese. There are of course so many fresh fruits and vegetables available, I am always amazed by the size and flavour of fruit and vegetables in countries with hotter climates than the UK (even though we tend to import a lot, someone explain that to me please).
As well as an abundance of fresh, healthy and nourishing foods, there are also vegan restaurants, offering ‘dirty vegan’ food (love that expression). One we tried, Las Vegans
near the centre of Rio, is a place I would definitely go again. We both ordered the ‘Dark Burgers’, a shitake mushroom and aubergine burger in a charcoal bun; and ‘Batata cheddar com Linguiça’ – chips, onion, vegan cheese and soya sausage. It was all amazing, if you’re vegan and even if you’re not, I strongly recommend visiting: https://business.google.com/website/las-vegans. Situated perfectly in the centre, we walked dinner off strolling around Lapa, drinking cheap caipirinhas and taking in the sounds and sights around us.
We spent the rest of our weekend being typical tourists, strolling along Copacabana with our açaí and fresh coconuts, exploring the botanical gardens, climbing Christ the Redeemer, taking selfies on Selaron Steps and hiking Sugarloaf mountain.
In our youth, Tasha and I would have been absolutely hammered most nights. But we’re nearing 30 and this trip together showed us how grown up we really are now. Now, we’re more interested in wellbeing, nutrition and the world around us than getting inebriated (it didn’t even happen by accident which is a definite first for us).
After our weekend in the city, we took a bus to Arraial do Cabo and spent a few days on the beach, taking boat tours and scuba diving. I swam with my first sea turtle! With four actually, the last one was like something out of Jurassic Park, I’d never been in the water with something so big (that I’ve been aware of). I didn’t manage to get a picture unfortunately, but it was an experience I won’t forget.

After much debate of getting matching tattoos on the beach (we didn’t in the end), we left Arraial do Cabo and headed back to Rio. We just had time to grab something to eat and print our tickets before we had to board the bus to Tasha’s town, Timóteo in Minas Gerais.
I spent the second week of the trip experiencing Timóteo and what it had to offer. For the first couple of days it rained relentlessly, and in true British style we had a BBQ, thrown by Tasha’s boyfriend Marcelo. Tasha made her amazing chocolate chip cookies, and we made vegetable skewers, sweet potato wedges, salads, salsas, rice, beans – who says vegans can’t enjoy a BBQ?
Towards the end of the night, Marcelo surprised Tasha with a belated birthday cake, made by Boca Verde, you can follow them on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bocaverdevegan/.
I still dream about it – I know that’s pretty sad but when it comes to a vegan chocolate, passion fruit cake, obsession is justified.
As well as the food (I am aware there’s more to life), I had the chance to meet Tasha’s friends and colleagues, and to get to know Marcelo and her new flatmate and fellow teacher Ashleigh – who has an awesome blog: https://travel-bugg.org
Although the rain hampered our travel plans, it helped me remember why I went to visit Brazil in the first place – to see my best friend and the place she was living. We managed to create a perfect balance between chilling in the apartment and exploring the city and the surrounding area in Minas Gerais. One day, Tasha showed Ashleigh and I around the town, surrounded by green peaks and with everything you need on offer – including great açaí, health food shops and self serve restaurants (I recommend Aroma). Later, we took an Uber and did some shopping in Ipatinga’s Shopping do Vale. I’m not really one for shopping, but we all managed to find new and relatively cheap trainers. Plus the vegan mango ice-cream at Coelhinhos was sure worth the trip. The evening was spent in Tasha’s apartment, adorned with face and hair masks, watching ‘The Shining’ and eating vegan pastels from Empório Nattu (https://www.instagram.com/emporionattutimoteo/). I don’t have a picture of them but they’re delicious, with a texture similar to samosas.
Another day we spent in the beautiful Rio Doce State Park, containing and protecting a large part of the Atlantic Forest, swimming in the lake, trekking in the jungle and photographing the Capuchin monkeys. It was absolutely blissful and the sight from the top of the view point was well worth the bug bites.
We spent my last full day at Limon Waterfalls in Jacuba, climbing the waterfalls, lazing in the sun, letting the waters wash over and past us. Water has such a cleansing affect, we basked in bliss all afternoon. What a perfect way to spend a last day in Minas Gerais.
(The dog lived there.)
My journey back to Rio was in stark contrast to my time spent with Tasha and Ashleigh. I left Timóteo on a Thursday evening and caught the night bus to the station. As nice as the bus was, in between the freezing air con and the crying child behind me kicking my seat, I didn’t sleep much. I arrived back in Rio at 6am, with a sixteen hour wait until my flight. Alone and uncertain of the city, especially without Tasha, I spent my time in Botafogo Praia Shopping centre, reading Your Silence Will Not Protect You, a collection of essays, speeches, and poems by Audre Lorde. Underlining excerpts that spoke to me, snacking on Biscuito de Povilhos (a kind of crisps made from cassava starch) and binge watching Grace & Frankie on my phone, made those sixteen hour wait bearable. (I would very much recommend anything by Audre Lorde, she was fantastically insightful, passionate and inspiring.)
I had never really been drawn to the idea of Brazil, honestly there isn’t a country I wouldn’t visit given the chance, but for some reason I was always more interested in the Eastern part of the world.
If it hadn’t been for Tasha, I’m not sure when I would have visited, but I’m so glad I have (especially now as I write this in quarantine). The landscape in Brazil (from what I saw of it) is beautiful and diverse; the energy is tranquil and welcoming; the people are so relaxed and friendly; and the food is luscious and fresh. Take me back!!!
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